12th – 13th January 2024
Our flight from Europe was leaving at midnight from Madrid. Mario came from Vienna and I from Munich. The start was not great as the train company going to Munich, was on strike. So to the airport was only possible by car.
The flight to Santiago was a long one, but all went smooth, including the immigration. With an Uber to our Hostal where the bikes had been stored for the time. We did our last preventive maintenance and backed all our belongings before we took a stroll through town including something for dinner.
A bottle of wine later we went to bed eager for the morning to come.
14th January 2024
Early in the morning we left Santiago on Ruta 5 southbound. All day was just boring highway until we turned off to reach Pucon.
The area is very touristic and it was busy! We found a hostal but it was very expensive, but our bikes were stored safely. We went to the black sand beach before stopping at a restaurant for a nice dinner with some Austral and Kunstman beers.
Es war ein langer Tag und wir sind schnell eingeschlafen.
It was a long day and we were falling asleep quickly.
15th January 2024
The included breakfast was disappointing to say the least. Clouds were still hanging low as we packed our stuff onto the bikes, ready to ride up the volcano as far as possible. A loose dirt road led all the way to a skiing area. Well, as Austrian we would not call it like that, but there were some chair lifts.
As we reached the parking lot we just made it above the clouds and were welcomed with bright sunshine.
Heading back to Villaricca were we turned south. The road was busy but very good and we reached the village Coñaripe to make a fuel stop. At the tourist office we made sure that the border across the Paso Carirriñe was open. From here is a good paved road all the way to the tiny village of Liquiñe and then it is all gravel road.
As we reached the border station the staff seemed to just getting ready. We got checked out of Chile quickly and head further up the mountain.
A frame across the road marked the actual border to Argentina. From here on the road was not even gravel, only dirt.
We reached the Argentina border control through a nice forest landscape with some lava fields in between. The border was relaxed but totally different to the ones we have seen so far. New papers were filled in and signed before we were allowed to enter Argentina.
On fast gravel road we headed to the town of San Martin where we wanted to buy insurance, fill up our fuel and get some money changed.
Shortly before the town we stopped at a roadside restaurant for a late lunch with a view across a lake.
The town was busy! We had no luck with the insurance as the office was already closed. There are two gas stations in town but one was closed due to maintenance and at the other was a very long line of cars waiting. We had no choice and stood as well in line.
Now it was already fairly late and we thought of staying in a hotel, but the prices were crazy high. Given that it was high season they had still many customers. So we settled on a campground just outside of town, overlooking the lake.
16th January 2024
The morning was surprisingly not too cold. Last evening was windy and the temperature dropped quickly, so I was concerned for the night.
An easy Donut and Cookies breakfast later we started our ride. The road climbed quickly and it became very cold. A fantastic road along some lakes and mountain passes.
It was fun until we reached on of the small towns. That was very touristic, but not business oriented. All coffee places were closed expect a souvenir shop which sold coffee as well for 5 dollars from an automated machine. We passed and continued after we unsuccessfully tried to purchase an insurance for the motorbike.
Once we reached Bariloche we struggled through the heavy traffic into town. There we first fixed our insurance requirement and then had a very late breakfast at a small café. This was simple but excellent quality and for little money. Happy again we refueled the bikes at the next gas station and headed on a gravel road away from the Routa 40 towards Esquel, our destination for the night.
This gravel road led along some lakes and through a national park. Unfortunately, we are in peak tourist season and many cars, trucks and motorbikes are taking this route. It was dusty like hell and we had a hard time to enjoy the beautiful landscape.
As we rolled into town we spotted a ‘fancy’ hotel and spoiled it for the night.
A stroll in town, some beers and a bottle of wine made our evening. Which was well deserved after the riding and a little odyssey to get some money changed.
We were into several shops to ask for exchange some Doolars and always were referred to another place. Not before asking how much money, we wanted to change. It had the first time of this travel a false illegal feeling to it.
17th January 2024
Breakfast in the hotel would have been good when the buffet would not have been cannibalized from a big tourist group. Still one of the better experiences we had so far.
Leaving town in sunshine but still low temperatures we reached quickly unpaved roads leading towards the border.
At one point the navigation system led me on a small road, which was a sort cut, but that was overgrown after some kilometers and I had to turn around.
Some fast gravel sections, great views and after crossing a bridge we suddenly stood in front of the border barrier. The process leaving Argentina was smooth and fairly quick despite the fact the it was surprisingly busy.
On the Chilean side, we just managed to arrive before a busload of people, again no problem at all.
From the border we followed a mainly unpaved road through a valley and along some lakes, all with great scenery.
Many nice kilometers later we reached the junction with the Carretera Austral which we followed further south. Very nice paved road with beautiful landscape.
Along the way we met some motorbike riders which mostly waved but with some we had interesting conversations about their and our trip.
Fairly late we reached the town of Cohaique and after some search we had luck with a hostel close to the town center, where we went for dinner. On the way back to our beds we stopped at a brewery for some tasteful beers.
18th January 2024
We were up well before all the other guests and had a quiet coffee before packing up and leaving again on the Carretera Austral. As it was early, the temperatures were still low and there was also a strong gusty wind, which made it not so easy to stay on the road.
Patagonia didn’t disappoint with the views again.
Many great kilometers later we stopped for a mediocre lunch at the Marple caves or better to say where the tours to the caves starts. The wind was strong so there were no boats leaving, but I had seen this before.
Slowly the weather got more overcast with some small sunny breaks in between, but you could tell that later on it will rain very likely.
This did not change the great feelings about the fantastic views.
At one of the fuel stops we hesitated if we should stop for the night or continue on, but as it was not late in the afternoon we decided to press on. Looking back it might have been wiser to stop, but until about 15 kilometers before our destination, we had no rain.
As out here is not much happening at all, we had no choice other than continue to Tortel, a famous village where are no roads except the one leading to it. And even that one just exists since a few years. All the little houses and businesses can only be reached by boat or wooden walkways.
After the struggle to find a place to stay we had a stroll along these walkways, some drinks and dinner before we got our well-deserved rest for the night.
19th January 2024
It was raining hard during the night and just stopped in the morning. We got a descend breakfast and headed to the 10 o’clock ferry.
The ride was wet and cold, but we made it to the port, about 40 kilometers away on time. There were already many bikers and some cars lined up and waited for the ship to arrive.
All went smoothly as the bikes got loaded last. The ferry was not very big but everybody got in the end a spot.
About 45 minutes later we reached the other side and now the bikes where the first to ride off. This was good as the road is not very wide and overtaking cars can be a challenge.
A surprisingly mountains road, sometimes along a lake kept us busy and the occasional rain didn’t make it easier. The weather changed very quickly and you could have sunshine, rain, gusty wind, all in 5 minutes.
At the entrance to the village we stopped for a quick photo shooting, before we rode all the way to the end of the Carretera Austral. This is just some kilometers past the village and is at the same time the passenger ferry port across to Argentina.
We stayed the night in the Paso Mayer Hosteria, which is a very nice place but a bit pricy.
The host had a lot of insider knowledge in regards to the Paso Mayer which we had planned to take tomorrow. Unfortunately, he shut down our plans very quickly. According to him, there is no way to cross the first section on a motorcycle past the border station. The water level was also too high to ride across the river, but that we expected anyway. A little disappointed we came up with a different plan. Ride the Paso Roballos, which is the next pass in the north. To do this you need to get an Exit permit online before you go to the border station, otherwise they will not allow you to leave Chile.
The process was a little confusing and we did not expect to receive the permission on time but a few hours later we had it in our email account.
O’Higgins is a small village, which is very much touristic oriented. Mainly for all the bicycle riders doing the Carretera Austral.
We found a little brewery next to a campground and had some drinks and our dinner there.
20th January 2024
We got an excellent breakfast and got ready to ride all the way back to the ferry, which was scheduled to leave at 11 o’clock. There were some clouds but I was optimistic that it is going to be a nice day. Well, this didn’t last very long and I got rained on, a little. Same as the day before, the weather changed very quickly and so I had also some sunny moments.
As we reached the port we found already many cars, trucks and buses lined up. Far too many to fit on the little ferry. But only 4 motorcycles, including ours. No sweat and we got on as hoped. With a little delay we arrived on the other side and had to ride back to the town of Cochrane. Today with sunshine and no more rain.
A little way past the town, our route turned off into the mountains for the Paso Roballos. A great ride with beautiful views was making our day and made it easier to accept that Paso Mayer was not possible.
The Border station was as expected without internet and another rider from Argentina couldn’t go across as he didn’t have the online permission. The second thing the official said to me was the question for that document. With that in hand the process was fairly quick and we rode on across the no man’s land to the Argentinean Station some kilometers later.
That was a small building and the guard had to fill in various books and papers. At least this time it seemed, that he knew what he had to do. After what felt like an hour (it was maybe 30 minutes) he opened the gate and we could pass.
The next village with a gas station was our goal for today. Laguna Posada got us covered. On the way to there, we passed many dry lakes and a Landscape which was much dryer than on the Chilean side. Nether the less, impressive.
In Town we filled up our bikes to the brim and searched for a place to stay. We followed a recommendation from iOverlander, but the place had increased the price by almost 100%, so we passed.
The second one was full and so we just rode the streets until we found a good place.
21st January 2024
We left the town early after a quick sweet breakfast. Right away we were on dirt. We followed the Routa 41 and got surprised that it climbed quickly with serpentines. But this road is not often travelled as you could tell by the overgrown and eroded state of it. Some of the turns where steep and banked at the same time. Not easy to ride.
Once reached the top we had great views and the following road was more like a farm road for most of the time.
Until it became just a marked section on the mountain side.
This whole part was about 150 kilometers until we reached the junction with the Ruta 40.
Very isolated and in no good condition but worth every minute of our time!
Quick bite to eat and filled up our bikes in Gabernador Gregores and followed again the Ruta 40. Soon the pavement ended and was replaced by deep and big gravel. As long you stayed in the ruts, all was good, but if you needed to change the lane or deviated for another reason you had your moments. Still, there is a lot of traffic. We made it through without problems and without any flats, unlike others.
The wind was a constant hassle and made it even more difficult to ride.
It also affected our fuel consumption. Luckily we made it every time to the next gas station.
From Tres Lagos we followed a good road all the way to El Chalten, which is the main town to access the Fitz Roy Mountain.
Man was this town busy. Every little shed and every foot of backyard was rented out. Even trailers were converted to bunk bed sheds. Unbelievable and no fun at all, aside of the high prices.
We met a bicycle rider again who we have seem in O’Higgins and he told us about his travel across the lake and the mountain straight south from there. Very interesting and all those riders doing the Carretera Austral really have to be willing to take a beating.
22nd January 20024
We left our not so nice place early and stopped at a coffee shop to get a mediocre coffee in a Styrofoam cup for 4 dollars. It just fitted the picture and made it easier to leave.
Hold on, not so fast, we still needed fuel, as we didn’t fill up yesterday due to the long que.
Well, it was no different this morning. There is only 1 gas pump in town. Yes this is the gas station!
The sky was overcast and sadly we didn’t see the mountains anymore on our way out. At least the wind was not so strong and we made good progress. A lot of nothing between El Chalten and El Calafate.
The latter is also a touristy town but bigger and more established. Most places we checked to stay where full, or had their doors shut. In the end we got a tiny room in the attic of a hostel and went to change some money before heading to the Moreno Glacier.
The exchange office was open, no cue and a person was sitting behind the counter.
As we asked for money change, he just shrugged his shoulders and said that he can’t do it, but the restaurant next door will help us.
And they did for a good rate. handed out at a little room on the second floor.
Loaded with money we rode the 80 kilometers to the National Parc of the Moreno Glacier.
Nice road, but we were worried about the dark clouds. We got lucky and had no rain.
After paying the entrance fee we parked our bikes at the main parking lot and hiked along the grid rise to the viewpoints.
Great perspective of the Glacier and you got quite close to it. We got lucky again as we have seen two glaciers calving from the 70-meter-high wall. Very impressive.
Returning to town and went for dinner in a popular brewery was completing our day.
23rd January 2024
We watched the weather forecast and decided to ride to the Torres del Paines.
The next two days shall be good and then changing to several days of rain.
We filled up our bikes and about 9 liters of spare fuel to be able to ride the chosen route without detours.
While we are there, we checked my chain and found it totally toast. This was surprising as I had lubricated it regularly and it was really in good condition before we left Santiago. Well now we have to find a solution. Google said , there are two motorcycle stores in town. The first one was a resting place for old mopeds, but no parts whatsoever. So, off to the second one. We passed it twice unnoticed, as it was only a shed next to a private house.
Once we found it, we got a Brazilian made 520 chain without o-rings. Better than nothing and we installed it right away, turned the sprocket around and were on the road just about an hour later than planned.
Soon we were again on a rough gravel road. This time no much loose gravel but a lot of big hard embedded rocks.
A little side note, there is a gas station half way to the border in Estancia Tapi Aike shown on some maps.
This is permanently closed! Do not count on any fuel supply on that stretch.
The wind was horrible. Just before the border crossing I was almost got blown off the road. At the border station we parked the bike leaning against the custom building. Thankfully nobody cared.
Once we reached the Chile Side we stopped at the first restaurant/gift shop to get out of the wind for a while and get something to eat.
For a while we had at least paved road what made it a little easier. Still, sometimes we needed all the road.
The entrance into the Torres del Paine park was busy with hikers and getting a ticked was impossible. Other than you might think though.
Now you can only buy it online, they offer free Wifi but the homepage didn’t work. So, they told us to fill in our details on a excel sheet and go, for free.
The planned campground can no longer be reached by a vehicle and this was disappointing. Due to that we headed further south to the next one marked on our map. Afterwards it was a good thing. We head stunning views with blue sky and enjoyed it a lot, despite the very strong wind.
The camp was not cheap and we had another problem.
Due to the strong wind, we used much more fuel than normal and we would not make it into the next town.
We asked around at the other guest and the host, but nobody seem to be able to help. As we got more desperate some came up with the idea of sucking fuel out of their tanks, very nice to offer such thing, but the host gave us in the end 3 liters of gas. He just made sure that we know that this was an exception.
Now relaxed and knowing that we will make it to town we had a great evening with our camp neighbors chatting and laughing a lot.
24th January 2024
Despite the fact that the evening was really cold, it was ok in the morning. I slept very well and long. Got up as the sun reached our tent. Soon we were on the road and felt even more lucky as yesterday, because the sky was covered with a light but kind of solid cloud. The landscape was still very nice.
We reached Puorte Natales and after refueling the bikes went for a late breakfast.
Now we had the long ride to Terra del Fuego ahead of us. We have been told to make sure to use the short ferry from Punta Delgado as the long one from Punta Arenas got cancelled several times the last few days. On that route is not much to see except a ship wreck and we met another adventure rider from Austria RTW on a Dirt Bike on his way back north.
We got to the harbor just as the ferry landed. The staff was very strict in the boarding process and the parking on the ferry. This time there was no skipping the cue and being squeezed in anyway.
Not that it was necessary this time. Still, we had to park in an exact position, in an exact direction, not too close to the wall, not too far forward, …
Well, the ferry was basically empty, so what was this all about?
The operation didn’t impress overall The short ride took much longer because the landing on the other side was still occupied and the one next to it was not for use, apparently.
Once we were off the ferry, after the truck, we hit the road as fast as we could. Still a long way to go to the next town and there was even a border crossing in between.
It got cold and as we reached the border, I was shivering. The process itself was quick and well organized. The final border control official even waved us ahead of the line to get us bikers a shorter waiting time in the cold.
As we reached the town of Rio Grande I basically didn’t care anymore where we stay, just out of the cold. The place was tiny and not the cleanest, but warm and cheap including breakfast.
For dinner we went to a little restaurant which was suggested by our host.
25th January 2024
Breakfast, was surprisingly good and we got even croissant. Ok, not the French version of it but they were much better than what we got usually for breakfast.
The temperatures were still low but as there was no wind, it was ok until we hit the mountains. Yes, there are mountains here as well. Not very tall once but still high enough for the need of an pass. Again, great landscape and we even got some sun.
The bikes and ourself got a well-deserved wash as well.
The weather improved and it got almost hot with 17 degrees Celsius in Ushuaia. After our obligatory stop at the city entrance, we fueled up the bikes and went on the hunt for an accommodation. That was not easy as the prices were high, or the place really run down or you could not see the room before paying. In the end we got an apartment like place with secure parking and went for a stroll into downtown.
Along the harbor where some of the cruise ships were and through the tourist focused streets.
We were also looking for a cheap cruise to the Antarctica. Unfortunately the prices for those where really high, even for the last minutes ones. The other factor involved was also the weather forecast. It shall get nasty for a longer period after one last good day tomorrow.
Due to that and the budget which was stressed with very high shipping cost forecast anyway, we decided with a heavy heart to cancel this very last section of our plan.
Instead we wanted to ride back to Santiago via more unpaved roads. So Stay tuned for that if you like great landscape!
At the place where we stayed, we met another ADV rider who has a small you tube channel (DeweyRides) where he posts about his trip. We had a long and nice conversation, exchanged some stories about our travel. It is always interesting to hear the experience of other riders and what they think about the trip, locations, etc..
26th January 2024
The morning is much nicer than the forecast told us and we are happy to start with sunshine and fairly warm temperatures in the day. As for the coming days is a lot of rain predicted, we decided to ride back to the mainland.
The Pass is great and we take a gravel road down on the other side, which follows for some kilometers the lake afterwards.
From her on we had planned to ride the normal Routa 3 but decided in the last minute to take a gravel version to Rio Grande. That was a fantastic road, fast gravel and great views.
After refueling the bikes we just made it to the ferry before the ramp was lifted and we crossed the sea on a quick ride. The rest of the route to Rio Gallegos was boring and windy, but with nice temperature.
We picked a hostel from iOverlander with great reviews but the reality was different.
The host was very nice and helpful, just the place needs desperately some or a lot of love.
Here the real prices of Argentina are shown and we had dinner and several drinks for about 35 USD in total at the main street before we went to bed.
27th January 2024
The plan was to go to the next gas station for fuel and have a breakfast before riding north west to Gobernador Gregores. All looked good on this sunny but brisk morning until we refueled in Esperanza and looked at my chain for lubrication.
My rear sprocket gave way to say the least. This was very surprising as we had it checked and lubed on the ferry. Here in the middle of nowhere we had only two options. I stay here and Mario rides about 150 kilometers to next town or we ride together very slowly and hope for the best. We did the later.
We reached El Calafate with an occasional jumping chain. As long as I didn’t apply too much power it was ok, but as soon as the road climbed a bit, it was bad. A quick coffee and the use of the internet from the gas station to search for motorcycle places later, we drove to the first few on our list.
To make this short, nobody had anything remotely suitable on stock or the shops where closed anyway. Well, it was Saturday just after lunch, so I guess the weekend had started for them.
The sprocket did not really fit but it was the best we got, so we made it fit. Ordering a part would take about seven days we have been told.
In the end we got a sprocket from a DR650 almost new and a very expensive DID chain.
Next to one of the shops was a garage with some bikes inside and we asked around.
The very friendly owner was very helpful and drove me around to search for things we needed.
While I was working on the bike, Mario rode around to organize, search for Accommodation and parts. In the end all was fixed with a lower gear ratio and a bit of bush maintenance but I was rolling again.
We celebrated the successful fix with a nice dinner at the local brewery.
28th January 2024
We started early because we planned a long day. At this point we didn’t know how long it would get in the end. First filling up the bikes and the extra fuel for a 300km + ride in the Pampa. We followed a Ruta Provincial for about 120 kilometers, passing 4 Haciendas and nothing else, until we reached the place where the road crossed the river. Unfortunately there was no bridge, ferry or any other means of crossing. The river was way too high and fast flowing that you could even think of trying. You can see the road on the other side.
So, we had to track back all the way to El Calafate to refuel and ride the ‘normal’ way to Tres Lagos.
Along the route you find deep gravel as described earlier, nothing new for us as we did this section already.
Along the way my bike just died in full throttle riding and was not possible to start again. We checked the usual and found the sparkplug to be at fault. A quick fix.
The fuel station in Tres Lagos is at a strange location as it there used to be a different main road.
Now it is a bit off the highway.
From here we took a dirt road in the hope that a track, shown on our map, will further up, cross over a valley to the Ruta 40. It was a great little side trip away from the pavement.
Shortly before we wanted to turn off from the Ruta 40 to a little side road, we saw a V-Strom parked on the side of the road. Naturally we stopped and asked what was wrong. They crashed and afterwards the bike wouldn’t start again.
So we parked and offered our help.
After trying the side stand and the gear switch several times, the bike started again and we all were relieved.
Now our ride around a lake was the next challenge. First, we followed a rough track. Nice area but far away from everything and obviously not often travelled.
But there was a road shown on the map after about a third of the way. As we reached the ‘road’ I was surprised. It was more a track in the dunes.
And shortly after we hit another obstacle, the river which feeds the lake.
We didn’t want to ride all the way back so I checked the river for possible crossing.
It was about knee deep and fairly fast flowing, but the real issue were the slippery rocks in various sizes.
To play it safe we decided to walk the bikes across, which was a full success.
The road slowly improved the closer we got to the highway; it was still a long way to go.
Not to mention another flat.
All of this took us much longer than expected and we reached the town for the night around 9pm.
It was almost dark when we arrived at the next town. At the entrance way a nice Hotel where we had a quick dinner with a good steak, some drinks and a dessert was our reward for the day.
29th January 2024
Usual routine in the morning, breakfast, refueling and go. Leaving town on the Ruta 40 for about 130 kilometers and then another 75 kilometers on gravel road led us to the Ruta 41, which we did already on our way down to Ushuaia. We enjoyed it so much that we wanted to do it again in the other direction. What shall I say it was just as good the second time!
After a short break and fuel stop in Lagos Posado, we just rode to the Ruta 40 and followed that to Perito Moreno. Sometimes you could see the ‘old’ Ruta 40. I always admire in these moment the old times when the road where not so well developed, or as I call it, boring.
Perito Moreno is a nice little town with some good hotels. I had another great steak for dinner and we went to bed early, as we had a long ride ahead of us planned for tomorrow.
30th January 2024
The night was quiet as we had been the only guest in the hotel. Due to that the breakfast was not so great, other than the coffee from a real Italian machine. But we had a great view residing above the town.
We followed small Ruta Provinvial and found some gems Landscape wise. Here are the Estancias really remote. Mario even found spare parts.
Here are the Estancias really remote.
Mario even found spare parts.
More little water crossings and over and over again great views.
In one of the little towns we stopped for fuel and a break, before we headed out into the remote area of the Argentinian-Chilean border.
Here we had to handle many gates and passed non used border station buildings. According the map, we entered Chile for a very short time and rode back out soon after as the road was routed like that.
Some of the roads were no longer as shown on the map. They had been built at just slightly different locations and made it interesting to navigate. Some of the equipment didn’t make it.
It was a long day and we arrived after almost 12 hours riding in Tevelin. In the distance you could see the smoke of a huge wildfire in the National Part nearby.
In town, we met a travelling couple whom we knew from Santiago. A few drinks, dinner and a lot of chatting later we went to bed for a well-deserved rest.
31st January 2024
Today we wanted to take it easier and we planned a shorter route. Instead of following the Ruta 40 all the way to Bariloche, our destination for today, we decided to take again some Routa Porvinciale.
All looked great until we arrived at our planned fuel stop. Thankfully we didn’t stretch the distance in between so we were not desperate for fuel. That came in handy as the gas station was permanently closed, the next one 30 kilometers away, the wrong direction and our destination well out of reach with the current fuel situation.
As we checked out our options, two police officers walked along and I asked them if they know anything.
Sure enough they made a few phone calls and we got fuel from a tire shop.
Now we could follow the initial plan and made it on mostly fast gravel roads, via many valleys with farms, to Bariloche.
The town welcomed us with heavy traffic and many people. After finding a hotel we settled in and went for a stroll through town, some drinks and food. Just an easy afternoon.
1st February 2024
We didn’t do much other than relax with a few drinks, stroll through town and watch other tourists. Bariloche even has a beach, kind of. This was good as the coming days will be hard for sure.
2nd February 2024
Bright and early, we left Bariloche to follow other roads than the Routa 40. First, we followed a well maintained and mostly paved road before we reached a more interesting section. So, we came through a valley were you could see many rock needles in a remote area.
On the other side of a pass, we had to go down on a series of switchbacks before following another dirt road, climbing constantly, towards a big lake.
On the side you could see often those strange trees and steep rock cliffs.
We made it fairly early to our selected nigh stop in a little village at the lake. We searched for an accommodation but all was very expensive. Despite the altitude the temps were nice so we decided to camp.
Dinner was not so great but with a nice bottle of wine we made up for that. Sitting at the shore of the lake in the setting sun with a glass of wine was great!
3rd February 2024
As expected, we were up early and packed right away. The sun was out and the temps not too cold. We again rode on mainly unpaved roads for a while. Coming through several valleys, were at the bottom was some green and trees.
While we crossed another pass, Mario felt his rear tire becoming flat. We stopped and replaced the tube without thinking too much about it.
More valley with some green and gravel roads later we stopped for lunch in a little village and had some sandwiches and Empanadas before we wanted to continue.
Unfortunately, I saw that there was a metal object stuck in my rear tire. Having a tubed tire made it clear that I need to pull it out, despite the fact that the tire still hold air.
I expected that it must be a short piece and didn’t reach the tube. Well, I was wrong.
Tube replacement was on order, but the tube had to be repaired first as we used our spare on Mario’s bike. Now we have been very cautious on our riding.
Luckily the road was paved onwards, great we thought. Just before our next fuel stop, I had a flat in the front.
Filled up the air and road the last few kilometers to the gas station, which was closed. Mario had stopped as well at my flat location and as he started to ride off, he had a flat again on the rear. Bullocks. He slowly made it to the gas station without air in his tire. His valve stem had ripped off the tube.
By now, we were a little stressed. We had only one more day, before we needed to be in Valparaiso. And we were about 800 kilometers away. That’s why there are no pics from our latest ‘maintenance’ stop. We got to work and while we fixed both our flats, a guy arrived to open the gas station. At least now we have gas for the next leg.
As we finished the repair and refueled the bikes, it got past 8pm. Despite that the next village is about 140km away, we continued, fearing the next day’s distance to our destination.
Well, it got worse. The pavement ended soon after and we rode on about 100 kilometers of gravel road, not the good one. Meanwhile it got dark.
To make things worse, my headlight had failed, both, low and high beam. I was riding closely behind Mario and using his headlight to see what was coming. That way we made it to the next village just past 10pm. Luckily all went well and we got a room at the local guesthouse. They even made us some dinner.
Tired and totally exhausted I fell asleep quickly. Tomorrow the last border run.
4th February 2024
Our day started early, as we had a long stretch to go. By 8 o’clock we packed our bikes, well we wanted to. Both our rear tires where flat. Not such a big deal, we just have to go a few hundred meters to the gas station. Filled up to the minimum with my little compressor and that got us there. Just, the gas station was closed. There was no sign of compressed air supply and nobody to be seen. There was power to the pump display but the pump didn’t work. So no other option than trying to reach the next gas station in about 130 kilometers later, we had some spare fuel, on the Chilean side. As Mario drove off, the attendant showed up and we got fuel in the end. There was even a compressor hiding in the garage which we used to top up the tires.
Off to the Chilean border which is about 70 kilometers away. We followed another valley with minimum vegetation and arrived at the border control much sooner than expected. It was just a few kilometers down the road and opened at 9 am. There was a short cue but they didn’t line up at the front. We parked and at 9 am, we wanted to start the process as nobody moved to the barrier. We got denied as the others were here before. Arguing that nobody comes forward didn’t work. No problem, just next to the station is a nice café. Totally unexpected, but welcomed by us, as we got a little breakfast and afterwards were processed right away.
The road climbed up to 2500m and it got cold. The environment must be harsh here. All the barrier rails were destroyed and even a big road maintenance building looked like after a war attack. Despite that, the landscape is great to see and we passed an artificial lake.
Just passed the real border line, my bike tied. I had taken a picture and started again the downhill run when the engine just stopped working. A quick troubleshooting revealed that the ignition wire got a little loose from the plug and after pushing it back in, all was good again.
The Chilean side of the border was quick and easy. Maybe 15 minutes later we continued our descent towards the coast. As we reached about 1600 meters altitude, it got suddenly very warm. I would say, about 30 degrees Celsius or more. I was worried, how will that be at the coast?
At the next fuel station, we checked our tire pressure and sure enough, we had to fill them a lot. From now on we stooped every 40 to 50 kilometers to do so. After some of those stops, I lost pressure more quickly and decided to change the tube once again.
Feeling good, we left the gas station where we utilized the compressed air supply. That didn’t last too long. Some distance later I had a flat on the front, and while fixing that one, the rear went flat again.
More fixing with the help of Mario, while he also had to constantly top up his rear tire, and off we were again.
About 70 kilometers before reaching Valparaiso, my rear tire lost suddenly all its pressure. No chance to fill it again. Now sitting on the highway, I looked for my options. Mario was ahead of me and didn’t see me stopping right away. Luckily there were some art structures next to me. Pushed the bike around the rail guard and started the disassemble in the shade of the structure. The tube had a crack, about an inch long. With my last glue and 2 large patches I fixed the tube. As I was finished, Mario was back.
I felt really good about the repair and we continued to Valparaiso where we arrived much later than initially anticipated.
The city was much more desolate and dirtier than I had it in my memory.
That got me concerned about our stay in a hostel, right in town. Surprisingly the place was spacious and fairly clean with interesting architectural features.
As all the restaurants were closed at 9pm, we got at a small pizza place the last 4 pieces before they closed as well and a bottle of wine at the gated liquor store. Happy that we made it in time for the bike handover the next day we went to bed.
5th -7th February 2024
The following morning, I got an unpleasant surprise, as I went to the garage after our breakfast. Both our rear tires were flat again. But first, we headed to the Notaria for some paperwork needed by the shipper. That went quickly and was cheap.
Mario was to ship his bike to a different destination than me and had to bring it to the meeting place this morning.
So, pumping up his bike first and off he was. Then, my bike was to be done, so that I could go and by a new tube form mine. That went smoothly and after replacing the tube at the next gas station I was confident that now all will be fine.
In the afternoon, I met with the shipper to hand over my bike. The plan was to drive together to a storage location. I followed him for about 7 kilometers and, guess, had again a flat. Now out of glue, a deadline ahead of me and him driving in front I was not happy at all.
At the sidewalk the bike got leaned against a concrete pillar, tire and tube removed when another motorbike rider stopped and offered his help. I felt much relieved and then my shipper came back.
Soon I had a new tube installed and we finally made it to the storage place to hand over my bike for the shipping.
The rest of the this and the next day was filled with repacking my stuff, having some drinks and reflecting on our ride. Well, our travel ended like it started. In the beginning Mario had many flats and at the end I had those. The adventure was great and we had seen a lot, fantastic landscape, great roads and so on.
Still, I was looking forward to get home.
FINISH
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