Roaming Idaho

08. July 2024

I got up early as the nearby HWY was very noisy with Semi-Trucks using their Exhaust Brake all the time. Packing up was quickly done and I rolled out of camp into the cool morning air.

Not too long, I reached the junction where the BDR link turns north into Canada. I headed south instead to avoid the paperwork of the border and I didn’t bring the title of the bike with me.

The road was busy again with semis, but I made good progress. In Newport I purchase breakfast and stopped in Priest River at the City Park. This had shades, tables, toilets and electrical power for me to charge my computer. I spend a nice morning there and uploaded finally some of this RR.

The temperatures climbed and I got going again to Clark Fork. Here I fueled up, had a very good sandwich at a place next to the gas station before heading south on the IDBDR.

The roads were in very good condition and only the corners slowed you down due to the risk of oncoming traffic.

Soon I passed Magee, where you can see some of the old buildings and an ‘airport’. Well, it is an airfield with a bumpy grass runway.

A quick stop at the Grassy Mountain to enjoy the views.

The way down into the valley is long and tiresome as you have to very cautious due to the overgrow which comes into the road and makes it narrow. Thankfully I had no traffic this time. As I got closer to the bottom, it got a lot warmer.

It was late afternoon and I didn’t want to go to Wallace as I remembered that would be a long ride across the mountains. Instead, I decided to go to the next campground, which was about 10 miles of the track. There would be a closer one but they wanted 35$ for a grass patch between the RV spots.

In the end it was a good decision as the chosen campground was quietly located next to the river and almost empty.

9.July 2024

In the morning the great campground showed its ugly face. It was extremely humid and everything was soaking wet. Now it was good that my selected spot got sun pretty early in the morning. Still it took me about 2 hours to dry and pack up all.

No problem, as I had planned to take it easy today and maybe staying in the blue cabin tonight. Little did I know what the day had in store for me. First was the ride to Wallace. Nothing special without any surprises. Some good views along the way.

As I arrived in town, I looked for the Laundromat and started to put all my washing items in a bag. As I loaded the machine, paid for the detergent, but the vending machine was empty and only took my money. Supermarket to by some was the next step. In the laundromat I met 2 guys who did the BDR with their Jeeps and they told me that the blue cabin is no longer open for public. By now it was already hot and it annoyed me that things didn’t go as planned.

After washing and drying, I fueled up and got going towards the blue cabin. Nice ride and the road were in better condition than I had it in memory.

I arrived at the cabin where 4 other riders taking a rest from the heat and we had a chat. After the obligatory picture, I moved on without knowing where I going to stay tonight.

The closed road mentioned on the BDR homepage was no problem. I had called the office of the maintenance department and they assured me that I can go through with a bike. Maybe I would need to wait a little. As I got there, the work crew had already stopped for the day. Half of the road is finished, so no problem for me.

As I reached the Grandad Bridge, I saw that there is a camp ground nearby. Unfortunately, it was fully packed.

I had to move on to Pierce. There I refueled and asked at the hotel how much a room would be, but the steep price tag forced me to move on.

In the end I made it about 25 miles into the Lolo Trail. I stopped at 2 Jeeps who had setup a camp and talk to them about the campground which is marled on my map just a few miles further on. They thought that it is likely burned out and offered to stay with them. And that’s what I did. Tired of the long day of riding I setup my tent, had a beer and went to bed.

10.July 2024

The sleep was good! Great temperatures and not humid at all. As I rolled on, I wanted to checkout that marked campground and it was a beautiful spot at a small lake with about 4 sites. Would have been a great place to stay but that’s how things go.

The Lolo Trail / Motorway is in very good shape, just a few fallen trees, which have been cut to be able to pass, showed that the winter can be harsh up here. On some spots was still some snow visible, but not affecting the riding.

From the road junction with the saddle camp road, the condition of the track changed and got more ruff. Some stretches with loose gravel or rocks slowed the progress down. Along the way I met 2 other riders on KTM’s and we chatted for a while before moving on in our directions.

Last time I couldn’t go the section where the Indian Post Office is marked, and I was looking forward to it. There are again and again great views and as I reached the noted position I was just greeted by another view across the mountains. Nice but not really different to the ones before.

The trail felt long and the rough condition took its toll. Now and then I heard a clomck when going over a big bump. I stopped and checked the bike all around but couldn’t find anything loose. As I continued, I heard the noise again. I unpacked the bike and removed the saddle to check the fuel tank mounting bolts. Sure enough, one of them was broken, despite that I had them upgraded to the stronger version. A little bush maintenance was on order. I had a bolt which fitted and installed it after disassembling the bike to gain access. Successfully fixed the issue, I continued to the Lolo HWY.

Instead of following that to the town of Lolo, I jumped on the alternate route and was surprised that it is just another gravel road. Not difficult but that way you can avoid some of the pavement.

I reached Lolo, refueled and call that next KTM shop to ask for rear brake pads, which they had in stock. The ride there was extremely hot and unfortunately, they didn’t have a proper rear tire. So, I left with new pads in direction Magruder Corridor.

At the next available campground on route, I stopped for the night.

11.July 2024

The night was quiet. Just one other guest at the campground. Rolling out of the place in chilly air and right away towards the Magruder Corridor.

There was some traffic but everybody was respectful with the speed to keep the dust down. It was nice to see this trail again. This time without the smoke of wildfires.

As I approached the Burned Knob Lookout side trip, I noticed again a strange noise from the bike when going over rocks and bumps. I stopped and checked out the bike but was unable to find the source for the clacking noise. The front brake disk is a little loose but the noise was also present when the brake was applied.

I noticed, or thought I saw some strange movements on the Handlebar-front fork area. After a few more stops I disassembled the bike for another investigation. Only to find the main frame with a crack. I guess all those hard sections where too hard for the KTM. Now the Burned Knob track was of course out of question and I babied the bike to Elk City.

With the help of the locals I found a certified welder which was willing to tackle the challenge. After disassembling the whole area to provide good access, he went to work.

It didn’t take too long and he was confident that it will hold up further abuse.

While I was re-assembling the bike, several locals paid a visit to the shop and we chatted for some time. After completion we went together to the next bar for a well-deserved meal and some drinks.

I had the pleasure to get invited to stay with one of them at his place. That turned out to be the ultimate bachelor place. A Bar with a fantastic selection of Whisky, A Humidor with the size of a home sauna filled with an exquisite selection of cigars.

We enjoyed an Old Fashion and a nice cigar on the porch and talked well into the night before going to sleep.

12.July 2024

I got the full treatment with a good coffee and fried eggs for breakfast before I packed up and left Elk City north towards the Selway River. Most of the road was very well-maintained forest road and soon I found out why. It was an active logging road and the even expanded their area. A quick chat with the road construction crew assured me that the road goes all the way to the river. Although it will become washed out and a lot smaller. According the signs only suitable for ATV’s.

Soon I reached a locked gate, which had on the side an opening for ATV’s.

As the road was winding down into the canyon it became clear why they said not for normal cars. Very narrow and deteriorated in places with trees all over it.

Once reached the bottom of it, I passed another gate and I got on a nice wide gravel road. That followed the river all the way to Highway 12 (Lolo HWY).

A quick stop in Grangeville for fuel and looking at the local motorcycle shop for a rear tire, before following mostly the BDR south to the Salmon River.

Like the last time I was there, it was very hot down at the river and that’s why I decided to move on towards Burgdorf. I knew this is situated at a fairly high altitude which helps with the temperature.

The obligatory photo stop at the Bus, before reaching the campsite just outside of Burgdorf.

I settled in for the night as the mosquitos came out in masses after the sun went down.

13. July 2024

The night was short and I couldn’t fall asleep again. As soon the sun beams were striking through the trees, I got up. The tent was damp and the temperatures fairly low, so it didn’t make sense to wait around to dry things out.

I rode slowly by Burgdorf which is now open to public again. Somehow it is still not appealing to me, I can’t say why. The long straights and the good gravel road were quickly replaced by pavement. That was very surprising to me. It stayed like that almost all the way to Mc Call. Before I reached the town the planned route turned onto gravel again, following the east shore of the lake into town. I was not in a hurry and wanted to check out the motorcycle shop south of town and maybe have a nice rest in one of the parks in town. The shop was useless for me. They are catered for Side by Sides and watersport, although the have a motorcycle section. I don’t understand the business style here. I got told that they can order all for me in a few days, but to order online I do not need a shop for.

However, next I headed to the River Park. That was a gravel pit, as all was a construction site. I ended up in the smallest park I have ever seen. Two houses long and about 1 house wide with 1 table placed in the corner. Mc Call is not a town for me.

With a full tank I left towards Yellow Pine. The road was dusty but well maintained and heavily traveled. Well, it was weekend and it felt as everybody was leaving town in this direction.

The ride was good with some interesting views and it again showed how far Yellow Pine is away from anything else. The town was not busy, just a few ATV’s and apparently there was a city meeting going on in the Tavern. I stopped at the general store for some snacks and a chat with the owner before I headed out to Stanley.

Again, fast gravel road with some washboard. My route turned east just before Deadwood Reservoir and went through the mountains to Bruce Meadows. There I tackled an ATV track which supposed to make a loop through the woods. First on Knapp Creek Road and then on an unnamed trail.

It was slow progress and I asked myself if this is a good idea so late in the afternoon, as I reached a water crossing. The crossing itself was no problem, but the climb out of it was steep with steps mad of logs and dirt. I unloaded the bike but with my worn and wet tire I had no chance to get over the second step with the rear tire. So, I had to turn back and ride the normal road towards Stanley.

My efforts caused me to be exhausted and I just wanted to stop at the next campground along the road. There were plenty of them, but all of them were full or reserved. Of course, nobody there, as usual.

I stopped at every single one on my way to Stanley without any luck. A wild fire in the not too far distance was also not comforting.

In town was a music festival going on, so also no space there. After refueling I left the town on HWY 75, where many more campgrounds are listed. But same story as before, full or closed. At on of them was an USFS car parked and I stopped to talk to them about my frustration in finding a camping spot. It turned out that this CG just got a free spot as the people occupying it haven’t paid.

Lucky me, squeezed between to Generators from Caravans I pitched my tend for the night. The host were very nice and even offered some dinner.

At 10pm sharp, the generators were turned off and finally I could get some much needed sleep.

14.July 2024

The morning started cloudy with only very little sun shining through. No problem as the tent was dry.

I followed the Salmon River for more than 20 miles up to the Sawmill Station. There my route turned north on a Mining Road leading into a valley.

A little later going up into the mountains on a forest service road. All was nice until the road suddenly changed into an ATV trail. It got fairly hard but all was manageable until a steep climb. Half way up, my front wheel got kicked out of line and I had to stop. Get going again needed some effort.

A few more hairy spots later I reached a lake. Form there is a normal road going down the mountain. The lake has a great camping spot and as I looked around, I saw a sign saying that the ‘road’ I just came on was closed. There was no closed sign on the other side and the trial was clearly traveled, including framers with their cows.

As I approached the valley floor, I saw a Wolf crossing the road and running up the hill. Unfortunately, no pics as the cam was not running and he was too fast to pull out the camera.

In Challis the bike got some gas and I some water before heading out onto the Morgan Creek Road. This was a fun but long ride to the Salmon River, which I followed than east until just past Shoup.

Shoup used to be a general store and a gas station but is currently closed. It looks like someone is trying to revive the group of houses as water sprinklers were at work.

I was not thinking much about my fuel range as I turned on the Spring Creek Road, which leads across the mountains to the road I took some days ago to ride the Magruder Corridor.

It was a much longer distance than expected and the rain clouds hanging around together with a cold wind didn’t make it any better.

I was lucky and got away without being watered. As I finally reached the Painted Rocks State Park, I decided to stop for the night.

Tomorrow I planned to go to Hamilton for a rear tire. We will see how that is going to be.

15.July 2024

I had a slow start as the motorcycle shop in Hamilton only opened at 10am. This KTM Dealer is located just north of the town and not small by any means. Still, he had no tires and no other KTM parts I asked for. So, for all KTM guys out there, do not count on this one.

There was another small Motorcycle shop in town. He also didn’t have my size on stock but he had more tires in the shelf than the large Brand shop. However, I didn’t have too many concerns as there are plenty of shops along my route to Billings.

First the ride on the Skalkaho HWY was on the plan. Before leaving town, I got stopped by an electric motorcycle rider, who told me that my rear light was not working. I had seen that the headlight was out and just had assumed that the bulb is gone and had already purchased a new one. Now with the rear one also not working I have a different problem.

Looking into this I found a blown fuse, but the rear was still not working. When I opened the tail light, I found that the bulb had been shattered. Next opportunity buying a bulb.

It starts with a nice paved road with some turns but soon gets smaller and after that it was gravel only for a long time. Great views and a waterfall made it even better.

In Butte I headed to another fairly large KTM dealer and was again disappointed. The usual answer, ‘we just order all tires and it takes 3 to 7 days’. I can’t believe that nobody has tires on stock. So, I started to call around every single shop from Butte to Billings I could find on the internet and which were open. None had a tire. This was very frustrating. Defeated I checked in the next Campground and hope that one of the shops which were not open today will have something for me tomorrow.

16. July 2024

I got up to and packed to be at the shop at 9am sharp. All my hopes were destroyed in a few moments. Also, no tires in my size. The last option in Billings was as well a failure.

Now I had only one more idea, call RMATV and ask if they would ship the tire to any address for me. A very friendly lady helped me through the process and soon the tire was on the way as an overnight shipment. I used the KOA in Billings, which is the apparently the world’s first KOA. There, the staff was also very friendly and assured me that receiving the tire will be no problem.

Now I only had to ride the HWY 90 to the campground. This was going through an interesting landscape but other than that is nothing to report.

17. July 2024

Today I have 2 goals, the most important one was waiting for my tire to arrive. And the second was to renew my monthly phone subscription. I hoped that the tire would show up before lunch so that I could ride a little further, but as the time passed by it became clear that this will not happen. So, I made my way to the next phone store only to find out that for another time I had chosen the wrong one. The employees again no idea how to do their job and in the end, I had to go across town to another branch where I got help quickly.

Later in the afternoon, finally the FedEx truck rolled in with my tire. I got to work right away and with the help of the Campground team in form of an air compressor the job was a breeze.