It’s time for a new adventure! Our Plan this time is to ride from the US via the Amazon to the Antarctica.
We are, myself (Motopet) and Mario (alias Wauschi). At the end of August our flights from Munich left to California and to Arizona, where our bikes have waited to be get the final touch before we depart South.
The motorbikes are 2 used KTM 690 which we purchased some time ago with the help from inmates here. Many thanks to those.
This is not going to be an on-time report but I will try to keep you all in the loop in a timely manner.
These days have been filled with preventive maintenance and final setup of the bikes and the luggage system. A lot of small things needed to be done. Still, I’m sure that we forgot some thigs to cover.
30th August 2023
We have planned to meet us in Calimexico to cross the border into Mexico. After a boring ride on the highway, we began our journey with our first border crossing. Mario had done the tourist card online, but one page was missing so our movement came to a sudden stop. The officials where very friendly but could only process us with the help of the staff from Mexico City and they where on lunch.
In the end all worked out but it took us about 5 hours to get the tourist card and the temporary import permit completed. All of this in the extreme heat of 43 degrees Celsius (110F).
Made our way along the border fence to the booked hotel where we enjoyed our first Mexican beer.
31st August 2023
The morning was already hot! Backing the bikes made us sweat and eager to leave town. The ride to La Rumorosa was uneventful but granted nice views back down. The much cooler temperature on the high elevation where also very welcomed.
From there we rode through the Parque National Constitucion de 1857. An easy ride with some sandy spots. Come on, we had to check out the Riverbed.
We stopped at the Laguna Hanson for a break.
The decent to highway 3 was fast and easy and we followed that HWY for a short while towards the west before turning onto a small gravel road to La Providencia.
Our stop for the night was Camalu.
This might not be a typical tourist spot but it served us well with Tacos at one of the street vendors.
1st September
We are still in jetleg mode. So up early in the morning. The time is used well and we made some more adjustments on the bikes. Before we headed out into the mountains.
After a fuel stop in Vicente Guerrero our planned route leads us in easterly direction for a long time.
The track was eroded and, in some places, not even passable by jeeps. Lots of river crossings, although now dry, have seen severe water action and where more or less only big rocks and deep sand.
It took us a very long time with hard riding to complete our 200km loop without a real break. After about 10 hours we ended in El Rosario, not many miles south of where we started from.
By luck we stumbled into one of the Baja 1000 famous stopovers. Had great conversation with some Americans who do a lot of Baja riding and enjoyed dinner at Mama Espinoza’s place. The restaurant is decorated with all kinds of Baja Rally Memorials.
2nd September
After our disaster in making progress yesterday, we only wanted to get further south on the main highway.
We got some routing tips from the Baja Veterans which we wanted to follow. Still, we made a few photo stops along the route as the landscape was really interesting. This included our first ‘out of the canister’ Gas station.
Our late Lunch in Guerrero Negro was really good and we felt like staying longer, but we had this route suggested. So off we were to San Ignacio for our last fuel stop for the day. From this old missionary town, we rode on a mostly gravel road for the rest of the day towards San Juanico.
We didn’t make it and had to stop for the night next to the road. We didn’t want to ride in the dark.
Could be worse. 😉
3rd September
The day started relaxed and we took it easy into town. The visit of the beach where many Surfers are living the ‘Van-lifers’ dream throw a stick into our gearing.
Mario picked up a screw in his rear tire. Not a big deal we thought but repairing took us all morning with several removal and installations.
The screw had made many small holes and we didn’t catch all of them in the beginning. That there is nothing in town, didn’t help either.
On our further way to Ciudad Constitution the tire gave up a few more times despite all the repair attempts.
So, we decided to call it a day although we couldn’t do anything about the again flat tire as it was a Sunday. Monday we will organize a new tube and hopefully close that chapter.
4th September
In the morning we went first for a coffee. Then the hunt for a new tube was on order. After checking several places, Mario found a correct one.
Did the change at a tire place who helped a lot with a compressor and lube to ease the installation.
Successfully installed and on our way towards La Paz. At least for another 100km before we turned onto dirt again.
Our Baja insiders gave us the tip for a loop north. This took us on a nice gravel road at first but after about 80km the road became really washed out and almost not passible. Steep up and downs made it even harder.
Once reached the coast it was again a easy ride including an interesting stop at a shop for a cold drink.
It was a nice day and not too warm so we thought and decided to camp. We found a nice spot next to a little river. Surprisingly the water of the river was salty. The sun went down as we pitched the tent and right away the mosquitos came out. Really nasty, so I retreated into the tent. Unfortunately, it was very hot from the warm sand. But there was no way I would leave it again. I had about 30 bites already.
During the night it cooled down and we got a decent sleep.
5th September
We got up before the sun reached the tent and packed quickly. Our goal for today was organizing the tickets for the ferry and do some minor bike maintenance.
During the preparation I read that the tickets have to be picked up in the city office. Well, that wasn’t the case. Tickets can only be picked up at the port, about 3 hours before the departure time.
So we had some spare time which was used to hang out at the local favorite airconditioned place, Mc Donald’s.
When it was time, we drove the little stretch to the port. The first thing there was custom. They checked the TIP and sure enough there was a problem. My TIP had the last digit of the VIN number missing. The statement was that I cannot be processed as the document is wrong. I was told to visit the Banjercito office on site. There a nice Lady told me that she can only issue a new TIP for what I would need to pay the deposit again, and this would only be possible the next day. That meant I could not take the ferry for another 4 days.
Many phone calls later she went to the custom office and explained to them that her boss takes responsibility for the mistake happened in Mexicali and they shall process me. And that happened..
After this almost disaster for our time plan, I was very relieved. Now the bikes went over a scale and where measured. Then the ticket office where we got finally our ferry papers. Before we could board the ferry, a worker insisted that we need to show him our mooring equipment.
Finally, we were on board now. It was extremely hot and we were sweating like hell while we secured the bikes for the ride.
All Done and then the hike through the entire ship to our booked cabin began.
A basic but good cabin with a fairly big bathroom. A quick shower stood between us smelly guys and a couple margaritas in the bar.
6th September
During the night there was a thunderstorm with heavy rain and a lot lightning but luckily for me, not too big type of waves. Although the ship rolled a lot along the longitudinal axis.
We made it to Matzatlan about 2 hours late and deboarded as fast as possible.
We planned to take the Autopista south to get away of the city quickly. Man, these Autopista are expensive!
About 2 hours later I was feeling not so good anymore and we made a break at a rest area. Unfortunately, it didn’t improve so we decided to get to the next town and stop for the day. Well, to make it short, I didn’t make it by myself. But a friendly hotel worker, where we wanted to stay, brought me with their van to a doctor.
This visit took the rest of the day but in the end, I went home feeling much better and confident to proceed tomorrow.
7th September
The night was good and I woke up refreshed. A quick breakfast and off we were again on the Autopista. The rates for each segment were varying a lot and before we reached the town of Tepic we decided that this is costing far too much and moved over to the free road. The traffic signs show always which way is the ‘cuota’ (toll road) or the ‘libre’ (free) road. Navigating like this we made it all the way to Tequila. The town which gave the famous drink its name.
After securing a hotel for the night (the worst one we had so far) we wandered around town. We wanted to do a factory tour and this was harder to find then expected. Because we both do not speak Spanish. In the end we got help form lovely ladies from a shop and so we were soon on a ‘private’ tour in English. The factory was interesting and at the end was also some Tequila tasting.
Afterwards we stopped at some food stales for dinner, just in time for a heavy rain. We took our time and waited with food and drinks until the rain stopped.
8th September
As we head further south/east we found a dirt track up to almost the summit of a volcano. Here are many of those. Unfortunately, the top was fully covered in clouds so we decided to proceed. The route took us along some lakes and through the mountains with big elevation changes between 1200m and 2300m.
Sometimes we came through towns. On the map they looked kind of small but in reality, they were huge. Traffic was heavy but all the driver’s pay attention and are considered about others. Only the speed limits where not even worth to look at.
Due to the missing volcano visit we made further progress than expected and ended up in Morelia, another big city. And the best was that we dodged the rain which we could see on the horizon several times.
9th September
In the morning was the traffic already quit dense. We headed on Libre roads to the Valle Bravo. On the way there is the Routa Monarch with viewpoints, museum and so on, if you’re here in the right season.
The town of Valle Bravo and the lake next to it are a very popular tourist destination. This is not what we were looking for, so we continued on.
Today we rode many small roads and reached almost 3000m several times. That meant the temperatures where great to ride, almost too cool.
We wanted to see one of the several Caves in the area and choose the Nationalpark Grutas de Cacahuamilpa.
First, we planned to stay in the last town before the NP but then saw on iOverlander that you can camp next to the Cave entrance. Decision made and we rode all the way to the gate.
The ‘camp’ is at the old but still in use pool within the access restricted park. It is a great location if you can life without hot shower and clean bathrooms, because those are really bad. There is the national guard on site overnight so all is safe. The bonus was that there are food stalls and a restaurant next to it.
10th September
A light drizzle in the night kept us on our toes but all was good. Unfortunately, we found out a bit late that the cave is opening at 10am for the first tour. As we are up usually at 7 latest, we had 3 hours to spare. We packed up slowly our belongings, dried the tent and got breakfast before walking over to the entrance. There were already many people and several busloads waiting and running around.
But we have been assured that we will be on the first group and that the tour will take about 2 hrs.
It started mellow with some explanations before we entered the cave.
The cave is fairly big and we hiked for about 3km inside while staring at the very high ceiling and many interesting formations. The guide explained a lot, but as it was all in Spanish we assumed about 95% of the information. Still a very impressive visit.
Shortly after lunch we started our trip towards Oaxaca to see some of the famous pyramides.
The route led us again over several mountains along very winding and nice flowing roads. High altitude included.
We stopped for the night about 150km before Oaxaca in a little town which sits at 2000m. Tired but happy that we made it that far we enjoyed a non-typical Mexican food, Pizza, and had an early night.
11th September
The morning was really cold for our light gear and that the route led us up above 2400m altitude didn’t help. The clouds were dark as well and we were worried that some rain could hit us. Decision made for the rain jacket. That made it much more bearable even it didn’t rain in the end.
We arrived before lunch in Oaxaca and stopped at our booked hotel to see if we can shed our luggage before visiting the Pyramids. Thankfully that was no problem. By the time we left the hotel the clouds had opened and the sky had a nice mix of sun and clouds.
The Monte Alban is a well maintained Assemble of smaller pyramids and temples at the top of a large hill overlooking the town.
We spend some time wandering around and take in the views.
On the way back in town we found a new front tire for Mario’s bike as his was wearing very oddly. Every second knob was gone.
We replaced it with the help of a nice local Vulcanizer who did a very good and fast job for 100 Pesos.
Happy that all worked out well today we relaxed for the rest of the afternoon.
12th September
Today’s plan is to visit one gigantic tree and some petrified Waterfalls. The first one is right on the route out of town. It’s an massive tree next to the main square of the village.
Then our navigation app led us by mistake onto the toll road. This is ok as we made it earlier to our second stop of the day and we were able to beat some of the crowds.
The petrified waterfall and some pools are interesting to see so high up in the mountains. Just the Mexican style of charging again and again for public roads and the tourist attraction becomes annoying.
Nevertheless, the site is great and we do the full hike to all the locations.
At the end there have been many tourists and we were glad to leave. Instead of heading the same way back to the main highway we opted to use a slow but stunning back road. This ran through the mountains and we had a lot of elevation changes and hills covered with the blue agave.
At a small village we stopped at one of the many distilleries for mescal. The workers were very friendly and explained us their job, let us taking some pictures and even gave us a taster of their product.
The remaining of the day was following first a long sweeping highway and then some long straight stretches with high sidewinds until we reached the town of Juchitan de Zaragoza.
13th September
There was a late start, but we only wanted to go towards the border. First, we crossed a big flat area where many wind generators utilize the strong sidewind. It was a bumpy ride as I was blown off the road a few times.
The other observation we made were many, and I mean many immigrants. There were more than a thousand on the road in groups scattered not further in between than maybe 2 kilometers.
Once we hit some elevation the temps cooled off and we enjoyed some sweeping roads.
In the afternoon the clouds got darker and as we approached our last mountain climb the first drops of rain could be found on the visor.
Luckily it didn’t start to rain until later in the evening when we had already reached our destination for the day, Comitan. We strolled through town in the search for a bit to eat and a cold drink before we retreated into the hotel.
14th September
We wanted to cross the border to Guatemala today. Due to several reports on iOverlander that the coastal borders are more crowded and difficult we opted to the more inland one of Las Champas.
Looking back, it was a bad decision for now. The morning was cool but sunny and we started totally unaware of what would come next. Leaving town, we talked about our plans for today and wondered how far we will make it. Not far from town we hit a roadblock. A few words exchanged and they let us pass. The next block did take a little longer but we got through as well. But more where coming and they got more difficult as the people become more resolute and aggressive in their behavior.
In Nuevo Villaflores we came to a full stop. There was no way to get through and after a long time waiting and discussing, we have been sent aggressively back..
We also tried to go around in the backcountry but got again stopped for good on a bridge for the same river as before. Here the people stayed friendly but firm on not letting us through.
So, we decided to go back to Comitan and reassess our options.
On the way we stopped at a military post but they only confirmed that the whole region is blocked by those people and nobody knows when the blockage will be lifted.
We ended in the same place as last night. A very nice and reasonable priced hotel close to the center of Comitan. The staff, which spoke good English, mentioned that tomorrow will be the Independence Day and there is the good chance that the blockage will be gone as the people want to celebrate.
If the situation is still the same, we will be forced to make a big detour of about 700km just to reach a different, supposing open border crossing.
15th September
Surely enough the next day were the roads still blocked. We had no other chance than ride almost all the way back we came 2 days ago via Tuxla and then south to the border at Tapachula.
So, a pure riding day to make distance was on the plan.
We took the toll road and made good progress. The temperatures were low as we drove for a long time well above 2000m. Just before Tuxla the road descended quickly to about 500m. From there we road along the bottom of the mountain range south to Tuxla where we wanted to spend the night before the border crossing.
Just before we reached our destination, we got caught by a thunder storm. Heavy rain together with flooded roads mad us stop under a bridge, being already completely soaked.
As the rain eased a little bit we continued to the town where we refueled and booked a hotel.
The town is a big city but not nice looking. Garbage everywhere as we entered the town and all buildings, we drove by looked worn. Our hotel was not old but nothing to enjoy for us and looked by far not as good as on the pictures. To make things worse there was a huge celebration in town on big sections were blocked off and you could only enter with a ticket. It rained hard for some more time and we only looked forward to cross the border the next day.
16th September
The short ride to the border was uneventful. As we showed up, we were the only vehicles and got directed to the inspection parking lot where many ‘helpers, Money changer’ surrounded us.
1x
While Mario headed into the building to get the process of cancelling the Tourist Card and the TIP, I had to deal with the money people. The first offered exchange rate was 1:2, while the official rate is more than 1:8. With a little back and forth we ended up at 1:7.5 which was also the rate mentioned on iOverlander.
The first offered exchange rate was 1:2, while the official rate is more than 1:8. With a little back and forth we ended up at 1:7.5 which was also the rate mentioned on iOverlander.
The whole process to exit Mexico was not complicated but the officials were not the smartest or keen to work. The lady who inspected the bikes and the VIN number took so many pictures of the VIN, making always the same mistakes and being surprised that the pictures looked all the same crap.
Thankfully she didn’t notice the mistake on my TIP and we were on our way to the Guatemalan side.
There all looks much more chaotic but after being stamped in and moved forward to the Aduana/SAT building we were taking care of a very friendly lady which led us through the entire process. In the end she even applied the Guatemalan flag on our windshields.
Leaving the Border area, I felt immediately in Central America with lush green vegetation and buildings like you expect. This was such a quick change from Mexico.
We didn’t plan much as we had no Idea how long the border crossing would take. So, we just set the destination to the Volcano de Fuego and rode to see how far we would get.
The first town we had to ride through was a nightmare. Small streets completely blocked with vehicles. It took us ages to get through. Glad that google rerouted us around the next big town and we had been pleasantly surprised that some of the stretches where the Panamericana.
Tired we arrived at a campground at the bottom of the volcano and we took a cabin for the night.
The host there explained that he has also cabins on the Vulcano where you can stay overnight and enjoy the views of the volcano from close by.
We had to do some thinking about the next day.
For dinner we went to a small place recommended to us with local food and enjoyed a great sunset.
17th September
Next morning, I stepped out of the cabin to pay the washroom a visit, noticing that all our shoes we left outside to dry and not stinking our cabin, where gone. Nobody around other than the guard dogs. So, I looked around but couldn’t find any traces of our belongings.
In the end all was good as the shoes were removed to save them from the dogs who like to hide them somewhere.
We booked a cabin for us on the volcano and went for a breakfast as they said the hike up will take 3-5 hours.
Back at the site with some food and drinks for the day/evening we started our hike.
All was easy going for a very little time. Soon the trail got steep, I mean really steep and it almost never eased.
In the end it took us a lot longer than expected, but we made it to our cabin just in time that the sun breached through the clouds which were hanging around almost all day.
The volcano also did not disappoint with many eruptions. Most where smallish but now an than it spied the ashes and rocks really high in the sky.
As the sun went down the temperatures dropped significantly and we retreated into our cabin. Mario didn’t feel too well and overly cold. Luckily, we could see the volcano through our little windows and so we observed it for much longer.
Clouds were moving very fast and a lot of lightning strikes happened in the clouds.
18th September
The night was cold, windy and a thunderstorm lasted for a long time. The metal roofing made all the sounds really loud. But in the brisk morning we had blue sky and almost no clouds. Beautiful view over the Volcano and the surrounding landscape.
We packed up and started our decent down the steep trail.
All went better than feared and we reached the restaurant at the trail entrance around 10. Many new tourists were coming in, to do the same hike as we did. That was nice watching, while enjoying a coffee and the view.
Back at the campground we repacked our stuff and made a plan for the rest of the day.
Sadly the brewery we had planned to visit was closed, so we went directly to Antigua de Guatemala.
The town is a very touristic place with many foreigners and accordingly were the prices. Hotels never had parking included and we spend some time in search of a suitable place for us.
Afterwards we made a stroll through town and had a nice early dinner to celebrate the successful day.
19th September
After having a good Croissant and a decent coffee we started our trip towards the Honduras border, thinking that we will have ample time to reach it and go through the process.
First, we made good progress as we opted for the toll road to bypass Guatemala City. But than we came to a crossroad where you can go to El Salvador or further to Honduras. Here a group decided to block the road totally. We made it all the way to the front although this was tricky. Several people were hiding in the shade of their own car and some even slept underneath. The only real problem with that was that their legs sticked out and you needed to be really carful.
At the blockage there where a lot of police officers in uniform and in civil but just hanging out at the food stoles. When we asked them about the situation, we only got the obligatory 1hr answer. Of course, it took much longer than that but in the end the barriers where lifted and all rushed to get going.
About 20km before the border was a bridge out for construction. The river too wide and too deep to cross.
On the map we could not see any road to bypass this. Locals told us that we need to follow a dirt road for about 9km and there will be a bridge.
That’s what we did until we reached a passenger suspension bridge, now we questioned our decision.
But we had not done the 9km yet, and sure enough a bit further on, there was a solid, big concrete bridge going across.
We made it at about 4pm to the border and started the process. All was easy except the arrival. There are several buildings with officials hanging out in front, but nobody is in charge of anything. We made it to the real important building which houses all relevant counters for Guatemala and Honduras. The procedure is not complicated and all is well organized if you can say that with all that paperwork needed to be completed.
The only strange thing was that you need to get several copies of your documents at the shop across the street and later pay some fees again at the same shop.
Over all the people involved where really friendly and helpful and we made it in 1.5hrs to exit the border station.
A few km later we arrived at our destination at Copas de Ruins for the night. Here, we treated us with a nice dinner and a good night sleep.
20th September
We woke up fairly early and went for a good breakfast at the recommended Café. Afterwards straight to the archeological site to see the Maya ruins. It was very humid but still not too hot and we enjoyed the exhibition. Very interesting and not too many people there.
Back to the Hotel and saddle our horses to make progress towards the Nicaraguan border. We planned to make it about half way today.
Our route led us first on a main highway but then turned off onto a gravel road. Now we saw more of the backcountry with their little remote villages and many coffee farms.
During a fuel stop we decided to do some maintenance on the bikes and became the attraction of the village. Several people showed up and offered help or where just curious.
When we arrived at our planned destination, we have been very disappointed about the bad vibes in La Esperanza. We saw even people laying across the sidewalk obviously not conscious. Nobody seem to care. The hotels were very bad and expensive so we moved on.
Nice mountains road and we made it to a hotel just outside of Marcala. Not cheap either but a nice hotel and in the restaurant next door we got served a very nice dinner. This saved us also from camping which would have been a nightmare as it was raining very heavy for a long time.
21st September
Before we start the fairly short ride to Choluteca we had breakfast at the hotel. A typical Honduras we have been told. Scrambled eggs, some cheese, black bean paste, grilled banana, industrial ham and Tortillas. It was ok but no recommendation from my side.
The ride led us first east through the mountains and then down into a big valley where we turned first south and then west again. The road was a mostly a very well-maintained highway with 2 lanes for each direction. Hilly landscape and it sometimes granted a nice view.
The obligatory Pupmpgun at the gas station included.
The further south we got the lower was the elevation and the temperatures climbed quickly. The humid air made it felt extra warm and according google it had 41deg Celsius feel temperature.
We had a hotel pre-booked close to the local hospital, but before we went there, we had to stop at the local DHL store to ship our drone.
The store is little but has very friendly staff. In the end all took a long time as they had to make up a box and find some Styrofoam to pack the drone more or less safe. For the payment I had to go to the paint shop below, an interesting experience. Let’s hope it will show up in Costa Rica as promised.
As it was in the middle of the afternoon, we decided to take a shower and then stroll through the city for a while. It has not the safest vibe as at almost all the shops where security guys with various sizes of guns. The electronic store even had bars in front of everything including the sales person, and a slot where they hand out the purchased items.
I always buy my motorcycle, the stove and the mattress in the same shop!:D
Never the less we got a few drinks and a bite to eat before we made our way back to the hotel where another motorbike had arrived. A fellow female traveler (two Tigers ride global) from New Zealand. We chatted for a while until the mosquitos got too much and we retreated into our rooms for the night.
22nd September
We started early in the morning to wait for the breakfast. Which was disappointing in the first place. Anyway, we were on the road at about 8:30 am and made the 70km run to the Nicaraguan border. The ride was nice and the temperatures were going down as the elevation increased.
As we reached the border we stopped to get the stamps for leaving Honduras. But before you were allowed into the building you needed to get your temperature checked. No problem, in the building we were send out right away as this was only for the TIP. Around the corner was the immigration who stamped us out and send us to the next stage. The official at the counter for the TIP asked only if we are coming back or not. We said that we do not return so his reply was, ok than I cancel the TIP. We didn’t receive any paper to confirm that we canceled the TIP but he let us take a picture of the Papers.
Off we go to the Nicaraguan border, so we thought. About 5 meters later we were stopped again and the officials wanted to see the passport and handed us a document to be filled in. This was the travel declaration for Nicaragua. After that we finally could ride the maybe 10m to the next part.
Here we had to sop and pay for the fumigation of the bike and where allowed to proceed after the payment.
We got stopped by the insurance staff who asked for the bike documents and the driving license. Then she said we can proceed to the immigration and she will bring the mandatory insurance and our papers.
In the office building the people where friendly and after being send from one window to the other we got told that as we didn’t fill in the pre-check we needed to wait. We knew that this will come and just played along. Not too long we paid our fee, the bikes got inspected and we have been cleared for the TIP.
This took a fairly long time but, in the end, we got all done and could proceed. A final wave from the last checkpoint and we made it into Nicaragua after about 3 hrs.
The ride to the next town was easy. We stopped at a canyon and checked out if it would be interesting for us but there was no point to spend a day or more just to see some narrows. So, we moved on and had a nice relaxing afternoon and evening in the town of Esteli.
23rd September
The breakfast in Esteli was nice and they even had the option for an American style. We took the opportunity to have a change in the diet for once. Left the town a bit late, but we knew that the ride would not be too long today. We traveled through a nice landscape and saw a few volcanos before we had to fight our way through Managua which is the capitol of Nicaragua.
In between we made a little side track around a small peninsula.
The road was all dirt and there was no tourism or views of the lake.
Our plan today was to see the Masaya Volcano with the open lava in the caldera.
Instead of riding up our self we decided to take a taxi which allowed us to skip some of the lines waiting to get access to the park in the evening.
The lava was good to see although you could only see a portion of the opening. There was no way to get to a point from where you would see more of it. Still impressive though.
Afterwards we went for a nice seafood dinner at a very popular place and had a nice relaxing evening in general.
24th September
The hotel was not looking appealing from the outside. But once you went in all was quite ok with the exemption that there was no air-condition. So, the night was not the best rest.
We had late start and it was already hot when we left the hotel towards the Costa Rica border. The ride was easy and we were optimistic when we arrived there.
Only problem was the Nicaragua didn’t want us to leave so easy. It was a lot running back and forth, scanning the bags, getting a stamp here and there. It took us longer than when we entered that country.
The Costa Rica side was no problem just a bit time consuming as we arrived together with a bus. Also, a border crossing which was expensive.
After we finished all the needed steps, we made quick progress towards Montverde. I was surprised how high in elevation and remote this touristic area is. The sky got darker and as we climbed into the clouds it started to drizzle.
We found a nice hostel where the owner gave us separate rooms for the price of a twin room.
The restaurants have been quite expensive which is interesting as the average income is low. We found one with a bit lower price and had a very nice meal. The evening ended with a few Gin Tonics on the porch.
25th September
Today was a planned slow day. The only agenda was to take a short hike in one of the rainforests.
First, we enjoyed a nice breakfast in one of the nearby bakeries with the morning sun glancing through the trees.
There a several rainforests with set hiking trails to choose from and we went to one which was close to our hostel. The entrance fee was a whopping 20$. The trails were nicely maintained but we had been a bit unlucky with the animal spotting. We saw many huge butterfly’s and some colibris, but other than that we just had nice walk through the forest.
The sanctuaries which you can visit to see maybe a Sloth or other more interesting animals were charging so much money that we didn’t even consider to do it.
Dinner was also a disappointment with stale beer and food which tasted not good. The only highlight was the sunset over Monteverde.
26th September
We left early in the morning and descended from Monteverde down towards the sea. For me the landscape looks a lot like New Zealand.
As we approached the sea the temperatures went up quickly and we decided to take a break at one of the beach restaurants. Mario had the idea to take some pictures on the beach and we played there a bit in the sand.
From there the ride to Quepos was uneventful. We found a nice little hotel on the outskirt of the town and did a walk to the promenade. Had a snack and after I finally received my drone from Honduras a celebration drink. This was a nightmare as all the promises from DHL, except the last one, were total false. The duration, the costs and the boxing where in reality a lot different.
We checked out the marina for a while and strolled through the shops there before we bought some snacks and drinks for a nice evening.
27th September
Today we separated our ways from the short-term Kiwi travel partner and headed to the Panama border. As the main road was nice to ride but also a bit boring, we decided to take a side trip to the beach for a little fun dirt ride including a small water crossing.
As we approached the border the clouds send us a short rain shower which should have warned us what was to come. We reached the border almost dry and started the process to exit Costa Rica. Sure enough we had to pay again an exit fee and the tip cancelling did take a while as the official got distracted very easily.
On the Panama side was the first thing to buy the mandatory insurance.
The broker was beyond the border above a chicken restaurant. We had to go through the restaurant and in the corner was the stairway to reach the office. It seemed to take forever to get the paperwork done.
Back to the border we had to do the TIP first, then getting stamped into the country and back to the TIP place. Waiting some time for the paper and get the bikes inspected.
Last step was to pay for the fumigation and finally we had been in the country.
Well, almost. There is a last custom check where they might look if you have done all the steps. Most people are just waved by, but Mario wanted to be extra smart and rode next to a car through the checkpoint. Of course, the officials didn’t like that and stopped him and because we are having the same bike, me as well. Nothing serious they just checked all the papers again and let us go.
While this us took about 3 hours to complete it was on and off raining really heavily so we but our full raingear on and made our way to the next larger town for the night.
The hotel we stayed did look good on the pictures but in reality, it was on older motel style complex. The night was not hot but the air-condition was not able to get rid of the humidity and that made it uncomfortable.
We wanted to stay hydrated and while shopping for some beers, Mario got stuck in the cooler.
28th September
In the morning we did some of the bike shipping organization. If all goes to plan, we will be delivering the bike on Friday to the shipping company for the Columbia transport.
Then we rode most of the time on the Pan Americana. Nice landscape but nothing outstanding. One thing to notice are the unbelievable amount of speed checks from the police. The locals know the spots an slow down just before. On the horizon were dark clouds forming shortly after lunchtime and we had to but our rain gear on for the last 15km to the town of Anton Valley.
The town is very touristic which is shown not by nice or new buildings, it is only via the high prices. 74$ for a hostel, 35$ for visiting a waterfall, …
This is not what we were expecting. Tomorrow we leave to Panama City.
29th September
Before we left town, we wanted to visit the square trees. As we approached the marked location all was fenced in with barbwire and where the trail supposed to start was no trail at all.
The ride towards Panama City was following first a nice winding road back down to sea level and then the Pan Americana. It was an uneventful ride aside of the annoyingly often occurring speed checks by the police.
We made it to the Panama Canal and crossed it via a huge bridge. Both sides were fenced in, so stopping for pictures was no option. Right after the bridge there is the exit which allows than to follow a road more or less along the canal. At the Miraflores Lock Visitor center we stopped and bought tickets. First was a IMAX movie about the history of the canal. Interesting and well made if you have no idea about the canal, but we have seen similar documentaries and left early to see the locks themselves without all the other tourists.
At the entrance we got informed that there are no ships until 3 o’clock in the afternoon. That would have been another 4 hours. Surprised but without options we took a look without ships. That was a bummer but what can you do.
The reason why we couldn’t wait, even if we would like, was that we needed to deliver our bikes to the cargo company for shipping them to Columbia.
First, we didn’t find the office location but a friendly fork lift driver wearing a company T-shirt helped us out. The crew told us to pull into the warehouse to get out of the sun and got to work. From there it took us only about 1 hour to do all the paperwork including cancelling the TIP.
An Uber brought us back to Panama City where our hotel was. A short stroll around the area and something to eat completed our day. It was hot and humid so we didn’t spend much time out.
30th September
The sun was out and we wanted to do a tour of the beach front. It was only 8am and it was already hot. There was also a running event going on..
We couldn’t find out exactly what it was about but it seemed to be a charity event where many company and organization took part of. Running in that heat must have been brutal.
The city center might have nice tall skyscraper but many areas are really run down and look pour.
Later that day we got the bad news from the fright company that our bikes will not be in Columbia by Monday as promised but on Tuesday. Let’s see what is going to happen.
We will fly out tomorrow (Sunday) and hope that all works out.
See Part 2 to continue!
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